With a packed room looking on, Northumbria University’s annual fashion show made its dramatic debut on Wednesday night with 58 graduates unveiling their end-of-year collections.
Gateshead’s contemporary art gallery proved a fitting backdrop to a dazzling array of eye-catching style from glamorous dresses and tops to striking menswear and jumpsuits.
Imagination was the hallmark of the night with the likes of The Gentleman Crook collection, inspired by 1940s America, by Billie Toole from Whitley Bay.
Then there was final year student Victoria Barwood’s high-drama collection inspired by the films of Italian director Federico Fellini and Annie McKie’s men’s outer-wear made from a £20 scout tent bought on eBay. Both have been selected to feature in a special online spring edition of Vogue.
“I think it’s the first time that’s happened,” said Kristen Pickering, lecturer and programme leader for fashion for the past nine years.
The grand affair, which included a champagne reception in the River Terrace for guests who included industry professionals, media and family and friends, marks the 60th year of Northumbria’s BA Hons fashion course show.
It has built up an impressive reputation in the fashion industry with former graduates going on to work for such labels as Ralph Lauren and Alexander McQueen.
A panel of judges were in place to pick out which collections to showcase on May 31 at London Fashion Week where the university’s students have won more 40 awards in the past five years, including new designer of the year, the fashion innovation award and, for three years’ running, the ethical award.
“We’ve never done a show where the industry did not come back to interview students afterwards,” said Kristen who added the Newcastle show is a chance for local companies like Barbour to see what’s on offer first.
“The judges are looking for collections that are going to have good presence on the catwalk: catwalk impact, balance and colour and sense of style.”
So with votes at stake, there were nerves as well as excitement before the models hit the catwalk in the level one gallery space.
Earlier in the day, local pupils and students were invited to an afternoon showing as a kind of dress rehearsal for the main event and this was the first chance students had to see their complete collections modelled.
Claire Fortune, 22, from Newcastle, said: “I’ve seen it in fittings but seeing it complete was different. I felt my heart race!
“It was amazing to see it but I’m a bit of a perfectionist so I am always thinking I want to do more to it, or I should have done this or that!”
Her collection is inspired by thirties patterns and by Greek marble sculptures she saw at the V&A and British Museum during a holiday trip to London.
She said: “You think of marble as being white but there are colour veins in it so my collection is all purple and pinks with blue in there as well.”
“Every time I do a collection I’m drawn back to something historical,” added Claire whose family and boyfriend were joining the audience. “They’ll be brutally honest!”
Victoria Barwood was “very nervous but very excited” about unveiling her collection which includes jumpsuits and dresses featuring lots of black and billowing lines inspired by quirky Fellini films and the circus.
The 28-year-old from Majorca, whose parents now live in Rothbury, has loved her course and said: “My mum is a Geordie and I have always considered Newcastle my second home. I love it here.
“I spent the last four summers in Italy working on a boat and came across Federico Fellini films which I fell in love with and I had the idea to do something in my collection.
“I’m inspired by quirky arty films and his films are always really edgy. I’ve used his Catholic influences and his memories of travelling circuses.”
There’s one stand-out orange dress in her collection among lots of black. “I wanted to represent the circus theme in a big way.”
She added: “You’re so busy with the collection that you never look at it. I feel like tonight I can, and that I can be proud of what I have done - although it could go either way!”
She would love to travel and learn from other designers and to ultimately set up her own label.
And the show, whose invited guests included Barbour, Topshop, Dr Marten’s and Newcastle-born world-class photographer Chris Moore, promises a perfect springboard.
Known as the Catwalk King, Chris, who is still working at the age of 81 and whose 60-year career in the industry has seen him work in the fashion capitals of Milan and New York shooting the likes of Dior, is just as keen to focus on the latest showcase designs from his home city and he always photographs the annual students’ show on its transfer to London for Graduate Fashion Week.
Baltic’s catwalk is back in action on Thursday when a second night of high fashion comes courtesy of NE1’s Fashion Futures event.
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